CLAUDIO CINA

CHRISTIAN DIOR COUTURE - LIFE AFTER GALLIANO

Fashion Illustration by Claudio Cina; Christian Dior Fall Couture 2011

Christian Dior Couture Fall 2011; photos courtesy Elle.com

Katy Perry at the VMA's in Dior Couture looking fab in this outfit!

For his first couture collection after the release of John Galliano from Christian Dior,  Bill Gaytten, who worked for Galliano for decades, took the reigns at Dior..... if only for a moment.  As fate would have it, his first outing proved to be a moment captured beautifully in pictures.  With all the best tools at his fingertips, Stephen Jones with his headpieces, Jeremy Healy on beats, Michael Howells with his set design, Pat McGrath on makeup, Orlando Pita on hair, the collection packed a lot of punch.

My illusrtation today has been inspired by the models that "gave good face" at the show.   Hats off to amazing chemistry of Orlando Pita, Pat McGrath, and Stephen Jones who brought Mr. Gaytten's vision to life beautifully.

 

Lanvin to Launch On-Line Shopping

photo courtesy Vogue Italia.com

What is Alber Elbaz's next step for Lanvin?  Offering his creations to an even larger audience by launching on-line sales on a new website.  The new site, www.lanvin.com will launch in Europe. It is a large step for the house, who is intent on merging technology and couture.  It will allow on-line lovers of Lanvin to have space not only to shop, but to review the season's must haves and to mix and match different outfits and accessories to create their own unique looks. 

Lanvin Bridal and Men's will also be available to order on the website as well as a four accessory pieces that will be exclusively designed for the launch of the site and can only be purchased online. The capsule collection will all feature a red embroidered heart.

What is so great about Lanvin is that they are pushing forward and embracing all the changes in technology so that they can reach a large part of their customer base, who is very computer  savvy while still maintaing and not loosing the old world and couture element that is a major part of the brand's DNA.

Dots, Dots, and Did I Say Dots? at Marc Jacobs Fall 2011 Collection

I know it's been a while since the last post!  Things have gotten really hectic lately.  Sorry to be away for so long. Let's talk fashion.

I have been looking at many NY shows as Fashion week is wrapping up in NY, and leave it to Marc Jacobs to totally explore a theme.  This time it was Dots, which showed up on accessories, hats, bags, shoes, hose, and almost every type of fabric you can think of. from sequence, to velvet dot appliques.  Take a look....

The hats were quite witty, but what made them edgy and not overly sophisticated was the head bandage that wrapped around the head and kept the head in place.  Editors will be fighting over these for their editorials!

all photos courtesy Vogue.com

Even if you weren't a big fan of this collection by Marc, you can be sure that it will get people talking.  It was very focused and the fabrications as always are rich and researched. The styling was young, sophisticated, with a sports edge that blended in nicely with a 40's/50's/60's silhouettes. 

Looking forward to this being a pre-cursor of what we are going to see in London, Milan and Paris.  What will he do for Louis Vuitton? Will there be a Dot in sight in Paris.  To be continued.....

Richard Misrach's "Pyramid Lake"(at night) on an iPad Screen Near You

Pyramid Lake (at night), (2004) Richard Misrach

Richard Misrach work is unbelievable!  I have been an avid admirer and collector of his books (and hopefully one day collector of his work) since I discovered his series of photographs entitled "On the Beach".  Well, I was recently given an iPad for Christmas and of course fell in love with it instantly.  But the thing that kept me looking at the screen was the amazing screensaver, which I knew looked familiar.  Of course it did, because it was one of my favorite photographer's images. Mr. Misrach took this photo in 2004 at the Pyramid Lake in Nevada.

iPad's background picture featuring the talented photographer Richard Misrach's work

I am very happy for Richard Misrach because his work is so beautiful.  This will definitely open up the entire world to his work as up until now, you could say that he is kind of a cult photographer slash insider's secret.  After doing some research I found out that Mr. Misrach is actually a fan of Apple, which was one of the main reasons that he agreed to let them use his photograph.  Another tidbit I read is that he actually used Pyramid Lake (at night) as his own screensaver for years.  I guess smart minds think a like!

Future Perfect @ Balenciaga

After a season where platforms ruled the catwalk, Nicholas Ghesquire sent metallic combat boots armed for the future down the catwalk for Spring 2011.  They had a little Doc Martens meet's "The Jetsons" look to them.

The one thing I loved about his show is his experimentation with fabrics.  You could see that a lot of thought went into the textile research and development.  Everything looked as though it was coated, bonded, quilted or finished in such a way that the pieces morphed from clothing to armor.  One of the main motifs of the collection was an oversize slightly abstracted houndstooth pattern that I am sure was found in the fabric archives of the house.  The overall combination of textures, print, and transparencies were at times android-like and you felt as if you were looking in at the inside of a memory board.

The pattern pieces of the garments are put together like a jigsaw puzzle.  The oversize slightly abstract houndstooth pattern takes that idea one step further.  The texture and fabric reminds me of Courreges and Pierre Cardin in it's futuristic appeal and appears to be a plasticized wool or felt.

My favorite pieces of the show are the final two exits.  Not just because they are modeled by Gisele and Freja, but because they represent the essence of what Nicolas Ghesquiere has been trying to say from the beginning with Balenciaga.

photos courtesy style.com

With each season, Nicholas Ghesquiere redefines the modern language of couture.  There are at least five or six fabrics used in each garment.  The value and integrity of classic construction is present, but he continues with each collection to push the boundaries of what is modern and what is relevant. Although this collection may not have been his most ground breaking to date, he is continually setting the bar higher with each season.  He make something that is not easy look effortless.  That in itself is a feat in need of applause.

In Studded Patent-leather Heaven

image is a detail from a photo by Patrick Kinmonth for POP Magazine; shoes Valentino Spring 2010

This shoe is designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli for Valentino Pret-a-Porter.  Although these are from last season's spring collection, they are such an iconic design.  What a brilliant idea to cross a classic pump with gladiator studded straps.  When designing, it is very difficult to come up with "iconic" pieces like this that you can look at over and over again and never get sick of .  In my eyes, their most brilliant shoe to date. This nude coloring is stunning.

Going Back to his Roots: Roberto Cavalli Celebrates 40 Years in the Biz

Roberto Cavalli presented Spring 2011 today in Milan with a collection that replaced flash with fringe.  Not to say that there wasn't plenty of skin.  I have to hand it to Cavalli as he has managed the in the last three years to redefine his image.  It has more polish and sophistication.  His signatures colors have been neutralized this season, opting for icy tones and of course, nude.  His prints were focused around snake and crocodile skins, which slithered their way onto the models bodies in the form of sequins, crystal embroideries as well as digital prints.  But what was really amazing to see was the craftsmanship.  The leather workshops in Florence were definitely working overtime.  The leather and suede skins looked as if they were laced, whipstitched and patched onto the body. But it was the fringe that took center stage. It was  used on everything!  The amount of work looked endless and all of it being done by Italian artisanal hands.  Boy did it pay off!

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2011; photos courtesy style.com

To end with a quote by Roberto Cavalli; "Siamo belli quando siamo amati" which translated means "We are beautiful when we are loved".  His clothes continue to create that desire and emotion. Congratulations! Here's to 40 more.

A Visit to Selfridges for the Vivienne Westwood Shoe Exhibition

Can Shoes; Ultra Femininity S/S 2005

Can Shoes; Ultra Femininity S/S 2005

If I haven't already mentioned, I just got back from a trip to London and Paris. I could not leave London without visiting Selfridges and seeing the Vivienne Westwood Shoe exhibition, which really showcased Dame Viv's talent for making both amazing and outrageous shoes.  All of her designs are definitely collectibles.  Take a look at some of her best from 1973 to 2010.

Cowboy Clog; S/S 2010

Toe Shoe Oxford; Man S/S 2010

Penis Shoe; Erotic Zones S/S 1995

Stripe Gladiator Boot; Do It Yourself S/S 2009

Gladiator Boot; Do It Yourself  S/S 2009

Loden Boot; +5^o A/W 2009

Propaganda Pirate Boots; Propaganda A/W 2004

Seditionary Boot; Seditionaries 1976

Three Strap Toe Shoe; Nymphs S/S 2010

Super Elevated Fur Boot; On Liberty A/W 1994

Mock-Croc Elevated Gillie; A/W 1993

Mock-Crock Elevated Court Shoe; Grand Hotel 1993

Elevated Ankle Boot; Dressed to Scale A/W 1998

Elevated Tartan Lace; Anglomania A/W 1993

Elevated Wing Shoe; Portrait A/W 1993

LV Boot Cocotte; Vive La Cocotte A/W 1995

Green Satin Winter Boot; Winter A/W 2000

Winter Newspaper Boot; Winter A/W 2000

Two-Tone Court; A/W 2000

Prince Charming Court; Prince Charming A/W 2000

Anglophilia Sach Boots; Anglophilia A/W 2002

Vivienne Westwood's Personal "Goat" Chain Boot; Sex 1973/4

Chic Boot; +5^o; A/W 2009

Candy Stripe Tie Sandal; Cafe Society S/S 1994

Petit-Pied Fabric Sandal; Blue Sky S/S 2004

Frilly Petit-Pied Sandal; Blue Sky S/S 2004

The thing that I love about her designs is that they are fun, unique, and there is always an element of fantasy.  Her shoes continue to influence and inspire designers internationally.  If you would like to see more shoes, there is a very well done book called "Vivienne Westwood:Shoes", by Luca Beatrice, Matteo Guarnaccia, and Vivienne Westwood that you can purchase on Amazon.com.  Thank you Selfridges and Vivienne Westwood for making this exhibition possible.

Let Them Eat Cake & Wear Platforms

Platform shoes have been proposed season after season for over a decade, making there way into the mainstream and popular culture. Designers such as John Galliano, Christian Dior, Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton have carried the torch far beyond the imaginable and come up with the most original designs.  Having just blogged about the Vivienne Westwood Exhibition, I felt it only appropriate to research all the brilliant designs AV(after VIV).  Just take a look at what I found. Super Sexy! Super High!!!!!

 

photos courtesy style.com; clockwise from top left corner: John Galliano fall 2009, John Galliano fall 2009, Christian Dior fall 2003, Christian Dior fall 2003, Balenciaga fall 2010, Louis Vuitton fall 2009, Louis Vuitton fall 2009, Balenciaga fall 2010, Christian Dior fall 2003, John Galliano fall 2009.

Vivienne Westwood Shoe Retrospective

photo courtesy Vivienne Westwood, Naomi Cambell in Super Elivated Gillie Platforms, 1993

photo courtesy Vivienne Westwood; Naomi Campbell models elevated heels in the "Anglomania" collection Autumn/Winter 1993.

photo courtesy Vivienne Westwood; Shoes from the Spring/Summer 1995 collection

photo courtesy Vivienne Westwood; Shoes from the "Anglomania" collection, 1993

Some of  fashion's most memorable shoe moments in last ten years have come from or been inspired by Vivienne Westwood (Dame Viv, as others like to call her).  There has been a huge revival in editorials this season of her vintage shoes.  I wasn't surprised, but super excited to hear that she was going to present her latest project in collaboration with Selfridges London this month.  Vivienne Westwood Shoes, An Exhibition 1973-2010 focuses on her iconic shoe designs spanning five decades.  This exhibit is being showcased in the Ultralounge, lower ground floor of the store until September 22.

Kate Moss photos by Nick Knight courtesy i-D Magazine, Shoes vintage Vivienne Westwood; Fashion Director Edward Enninful

Seeing platform shoes on the runway and on the streets nowadays isn't shocking at all because they have become part of our everyday vocabulary.  Seventeen years ago, in 1993, when everyone else was showing flats, demi heels, and stilettos, Vivienne Westwood was sending her models down the catwalk in super elevated platforms.  Vivienne loved wearing these herself and I recall her saying in interviews that they made her feel like a lady.  It is unbelievable looking back that she was onto it way before everyone else.

Definitely worth the trip to Selfridges!

Vivienne Westwood, "I think some people would love to be able to make the clothes I make - and of course, I do influence them, but they keep simplifying, and minimalism doesn't quite work"

photo of Vivienne Westwood wearing her plastic bag by Inez Van Lamsweerde/Vinoodh Matadin, 1994.

CHEERS