CLAUDIO CINA

Tailored Perfection at It's Best - Sarah Burton's Sharp Pre-Fall Collection for McQueen

Photos courtesy Style.com

 When I first saw the look book of the Alexander McQueen collection for Pre-Fall, my thoughts were zealous, as in a short amount of time, Sarah has managed to come out of her shell and show her sense of design while still giving us what we loved from Lee McQueen.  The pieces were amazingly cut, choosing Military and Nautical silhouettes to tell a story. Very rigourous, very tight, and very sexy a la Helmut Newton.  The color palette was very clean, with Black, Navy, Cream, Red, Hot Pink, and lots of Gold.  The play between long and short lengths, which has been something that Sarah has been experimenting with these last collections looked better than ever.  

There was a lot of controversy surrounding the long gown, shown in this pre-collection that Michelle Obama wore to the China State Dinner where she chose to wear McQueen. Many complained that she should have picked an American label. Really? Why should it matter.  The dress is beautiful and she looked amazing in it.  Enough said. Sarah, can't wait to see what you have in store for Fall this February.....Stay tuned.

Michelle and Barock Obama at the China State Dinner, 2011; Michelle is wearing Alexander McQueen.

MARGIELA pre-fall 2011

all photos courtesy vogue.com

Martin Margiela is no longer designing but his trusty team that has been left with the task of bring forward his legacy and has been doing a great job of designing collections that have the feel and essence of the brand.  Too often, many fashion houses that are lacking their founder seem to be lost while their efforts at designing are forced and not truly in line with what their founder would have wanted.  I will not name names, but when can all think of a bunch of these!  

Margiela has always been about creating individual cult pieces that are fashion without trying too hard.  Hard-edge tailoring, androgynous cuts that seem to blend the line of masculinity and femininity. I especially love the sunburst pleated dress cut in dark red and fitted on the bias.  The color palette is so chic and urban. Even the way the pants are straight, super slim and slouchy is so fresh.   His use of goat fur on jackets to resemble the continuation of human hair was also very cool and signature.  

I can't wait to see what they will be showing on the runways for the mens shows, just around the corner. I am sure as always to be a fan.

Day to Night in NYC - The Backdrop to a Beautiful Pre-Fall Collection by Givenchy

photos courtesy Givenchy & Vogue.com

Givenchy's and his team's pre-Fall collection, photographed on the streets of NYC, was very on point.  Think of some of the ladies that he dresses; Madonna, Daphne Guiness, Cecilia Dean, BetonyVernon, Marina Abromovic, Ciara, and the clothes look perfect.  I am positive that some of them will be fighting over these pieces!

Tisci decided to stay away from his classic black this season and made a statement with brown.  The texures of the fabrics; chiffons, feathers, felted wools, leather, lace, fur, satins, cashmere, and nylon all played nicely against one another.  Zippers, which were used heavily as trim for Spring were still seen on pieces, this time in detachable sleeves.  The animal print, which was such a strong print for Spring was taken forward with a digitized Armadillo print.

The styling was very cool and fresh. I think that Fall as a season lends itself very nicely to the DNA that Riccardo Tisci has created for Givenchy and if this is any indication of the level of what we will be seeing on the catwalk for the Fall Prêt-à-Porter, there will not be any disappointments.

above; Prince's symbol and logo 

As a side note, I couldn't help but think of Prince's logo when I saw the new Givenchy emblem introduced on all the hardware this season.  Tisci calls it the Obsedia.  Strikingly similar or it may just be a coincidence?

Phoebe Philo on a Roll at Celine - Pre-Fall 2011 Collection

all photos courtesy Vogue.com

In a tightly designed and edited pre-fall collection showing 36 looks, it was hard to look and find something that you didn't like.  Is this woman able to do no wrong?  Well, I would say yes!  I could have posted all 36 looks, but I thought I would show some of my favorites, which believe it or not were devoid of color. Mostly black and white with touches of dark red.  The appeal of these pieces was in the cut and tailoring.  The little touches and the way each piece was put together almost looked like a Rothko painting or a sophisticated Lego set for kids.

All said, this is one of the most refreshing Pre-Fall thus far. More from Paris to come shortly.

Burberry Pre-Fall Collection Shot like a Vogue Editorial

all photos courtesy Style.com

Christopher Bailey's pre-fall 2011 collection for Burberry can be cut & pasted into the pages of the Vogue...as is. They look is very editorial! The pieces are reminiscent of Bailey's work for Gucci in the Tom Ford years and perfect to bring out of the archive for Burberry right now.  The flare leg is essential and once again looks so desirable.  This is by far my favorite pre-fall collection. Very modern, very sleek, & very young Hollywood.